Saturday 3 March 2012

Lets go to The Lonely Rough Guide to Upper Saxony


As a rule, I think the burning of books is a bad thing and in most circumstances I would be inclined to stick my head above the parapet and voice my objections.  The one exception to this rule, are guide books.  My local library has shelves upon shelves of the likes of The Lonely Rough Guide to Upper Saxony, and Lets Go Caravanning in the East Riding of Yorkshire and not a single edition of a novel by the likes of Peter Carey, John Kennedy Toole, or Isabel Allende.  I accept that many people I know who use my lihad in New Zealand  times |i to rself headfirst from a very high bridge attached to rubber bandpen to be stood on top of very acbrary don’t share my taste in literature, but they tend to go on day trips to Cleethorpes rather than visit the superb wineries of Mendoza.

I’ve done a bit of travelling and it always amazes me how reliant my fellow travellers are on these books.  With possible exception of a change of clean underwear and a toothbrush, they are regarded as the most essential requirement of the independent traveller.

In my experience as soon as a restaurant gets listed in the Lonely Planet you are no longer greeted by the gracious host Antonio in a manner that a major Hollywood star would expect, and shown to table with magnificent views of the Monte de Santa Maria Novella and sold seafood that fancy LA restaurants can only dream of serving for less than the price of a pint of milk.  You are now expected to wait for half an hour, whilst Paulo who is on the Italian equivalent of an Italian work experience programme, finishes texting his mates, before showing you to a table in a very small room, which was formally Antonio’s grandmothers lavatory, where you are served food that wouldn’t be out of place in a Burger King Happy Meal for the price of what is the GDP of medium sized African country.

Furthermore, these places are jammed packed with other independent tourists.  If I wanted to spend time I could the train down to St Pancras and go and hang out in some bar in Camden rather than jetting off around the world.

In my view, much of the advice given to travelers is not sound.  I accept that walking around the Vatican City topless or setting up a heroin export business in Bangkok is possibly going to get you into trouble.  I remember reading in one of these guidebooks, that you should not under any circumstances consider hitch hiking in New Zealand.  You may be offered a lift by a group of young men echo are off their heads on some from amphetamine where all the ‘healthy’ chemicals have been removed or by a German tourist drives like Michael Schumacher and is unsure which side of road to travel on.  This book contained a list of must do things in NZ, which included ‘doing’ the Tongariro and bungee jumping in Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuakitanatahu.  I suspect that the probability of something unfortunate happening to you are far greater if you happen to be stood on top of very active volcano or if you throw yourself headfirst from a very high bridge attached only to rubber band.  Some of the best times |I had in New Zealand were when I was hitching.  I got put up for the night, taken to deserted beaches that were completely off the radar of the guide books and was taught how to fish.

I love books and would hate to see them replaced by Kindles, however when it comes to these guidebooks I would rather consult one of the many travel blogs or checkout an online issue of the local newspaper.  The best people to get under the skin of place are those who actually live there.  And then you could always then spend the money you have saved by purchasing novel.  In my view investing £10 in Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s Shadow of the Wind or Orwell’s Homage to Catalonia is a much better investment than spending £20 on the Lonely Rough Guide to Barcelona

Finally, if you are walking 800km of the Camino de Santiago you don’t need to be carrying something that weighs slightly less than your average sized brick

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